So real quick.
Yesterday went out to the big waves. we rode around to three different beaches looking for the right waves. and then we found them at st. teresa. waves were shoulder high and looked great. so I paddled out without a problem. only had turtle once, ridiculously lucky the two girls behind me got every wave and didn't even make it out. so getting to the outside kind of is cool all on its own even though it was mostly luck. but then I"m out there britt and erika are with me giving me advice and instruction. HUGE WAVE COMING. omg omg what to do what to-- TURTLE. oh kay made it. Nice job. Here's another one OMG SO FREAKING BIG.... TURTLE TURTLE okay made it. What happened to hanging out in themellow ocean. these waves are freaking huge. Here comes another one!!! NO NONO STOP omg other surfers omg omg TURTLE. lost my board kind of rough, this tough and scary people I'm not so sure about it. Here's another one and another one. omg i just want to go home. okay finally back up. wait there's the beach, PADDLE PADDLE-- Britt is coming towards me... you are going the wrong way NO I'M ALL DONE omg keep paddling!!! wave gets me lose my board. recover PADDLE wave gets me lose my board, I WANT TO GO HOME. surfer yellingat me -- wave -wave. OMG made it to the beach. and that my friends is life on the outside.
So this morning I had my private yoga session I totally rock yoga, did a head stand and can put my leg over my shoulder. I'm very good, thinking of becoming a yogi rather than a surfer. why because I'm flexible and surfing is SCARY. fun yes in the white water but yes its scary you get totally knocked around. so I go out for the final morning surf and rode an 8'6" board, smaller and lighter than the 9'2" I was riding. abut I got up no problemo-- I popped up -- I turned. so I guess i can stick with surfing a bit more. Small waves people.
OOh and you all have some awesome photos to look forward to seeing of the waves I did get up on.
Alright next leg of the trip.
1 comment:
Pink Cheeks = Pink Taco
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